We replaced our ancient Jennair (came with the house) with a nice Frigidaire FPIC3095MSA Induction cooktop.

We went induction because we have no gas out here, and no desire for an unsightly propane tank. We've been enjoying it until the Sunday after Hurricane Zeta (2020) blew through.

I go to turn it on, and nothing. No lights, beeps, heat, buzzing, arcing.... nothing.

It being Sunday, Frigidaire is closed. I wait until Monday at 0800 to call their support line.

"All our agents are currently busy. Please call back another time. click"

Well then.

After two days of "calling back at another tine", I went looking for anther phone number. Finally. A human.

Turns out, their warranty means squat if you didn't order it through a dealer.

On to the extended warranty. Called them up, and they schedule a technician. Then cancel the technician because they won't fix it (I don't fault them, it probably got totaled out in their internal calculations). Instead, a full refund for the purchase price.

Since its dead, and unencumbered by any warranty, I do what a good engineer does. Take it apart. Dave Jones would be proud.  

There is no publicly available service manual for this thing so here goes.

Place towels on your dining room table
Place 2x 2x4s on the towels on your dining room table.

Place the cooktop (cooking side up) on the 2x4s so that the powercord and fan guards are suspended and not scratching the dining room table.

Undo the 10 T15 torx screws that affix the glass top to the body of the cooktop.

Carefully lift the glass top off the metal body about 2" (use some 2x4 scraps for support if you have to)

Remove the two white plugs that connect the control board (permenently affixed to the back of the glass).

Now completely lift the glass up and off the metal body.

Now we can troubleshoot. There are 3 or 4 remaining components inside the cooktop at this point (depending if you have the 30 or 36"). The induction generators (2x or 3x) and the power supply.

Here's what my power supply looked like:

MMMMMMM that might be the problem

The exploded chip is an ST Viper53. A nice all in one PWM power supply driver. The cooked resistor is a 5 Ohm 5% tolerance resistor. Looks like a 2W part to me.

I see a smattering of diodes, a FET/transistor, and two optocouplers.

I'll test those too.

Test results:

I've got the Viper53 as dead, the 5ohm resistor as dead, parts of the rectifier as dead (made up of 4 individual diodes, really? In the late 2010s?), and the optoisolaters are dead, as are quite a few diodes.

The passives seem fine

The best course of action is to replace the board.

Replace the board, reconnect the cables from where they came off.

In someone's infinite wisdom, there are two identical connectors on the control board. At least put some markers on the silkscreen that tells how many wires go in each one. That's basically free.

Here's how they actually connect.

As they say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Drop it into the hole, connect power and BAM! I have a cooktop again, and a happy spouse.

I'll be keeping the old board around and repairing it. Its less than $30 worth of parts in low quantity on digikey, and a full board is $130.